My Milano: Classic, Calm and Charming
In less than two years, jewelry designer Jules Kim has already found a multitude of reasons to love her new city.
Photography by Shana Trajanoska
Jules Kim is a jewelry designer by profession, and a culture maven by nature. Although she and her husband only moved to Milan a year-and-a-half ago, her growing list of favorite wine bars, aperitivo spots, and Korean restaurants would impress any lifelong resident. Kim, a former New York City resident and nightlife impresario who founded her line Bijules in 2002, may no longer work in the hospitality business, but that’s hardly dulled her verve for community building and connection. In March, she’s producing a large-scale pop-up photo exhibition in partnership with Fondazione Sozzani, complete with speaker panels and workshops. Read on for some of Kim’s most-visited local haunts, a useful Italian phrase everyone should know, and a typical day in her life.
Where did you move from and how long have you lived here?
I moved to Milan a year and a half ago. My photographer husband and I came from Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands, after having lived in New York City for 20 years.
Describe the city in three words:
Classic, calm and charming.
Jewelry in all imagery Bijules
Favorite Milano neighborhood:
Loreto
Describe the Milanese people:
Passionate, surprisingly open.
Jewelry by Bijules
Any odd or surprising cultural differences?
My partner is Italian so I would not say that I’m surprised by the culture after 20 years of being together. One thing I have noticed is that I practice “New York” style inquiries, only to have a pretty flat reply. And vice versa— I see people in the street seemingly interested in what I am wearing, but they withhold from asking!
Another aspect of Italian culture is their lack of diversity. Here in Italy, immigration is a new thing. It’s disappointing, but I am learning how history defines diversity, and how my perspective can contribute to more awareness and support from a fellow immigrant. Twenty years ago, I felt like I was the only Asian in my husband’s hometown, but slowly things are changing. (The keyword is “slowly,” which is instep with Italian culture and an aspect I can appreciate. Not everywhere is New York.)
Have you picked up any local habits/sayings?
Of course! “Dai Cazzo!” People say it in disbelief or judgement, with exaggerated hand gestures.
Is there a Milanese tradition or custom you love?
The culture of slow food and high-quality everything has impressed me. America has food all wrong. The chemicals and sugars are completely unnecessary and unhealthy.
Describe your typical Milanese day.
I wake and do Pilates after a breakfast walk with Grace Jones (my puppy) and my husband. I work with several time zones, so I correspond with Asia teams in the morning and then NYC, and finally, the West Coast. If I have Milan projects running, I love heading to the Diamond District, aka the Duomo, to meet with my artisans. The Duomo is typically teeming with annoying tourists, so I like to discover “in the cut” spots to avoid the crowds. I stop for a cafe at Portrait Hotel, which is super quiet and great for private meetings in the hood, where I can show my collection with no worries of pickpockets!
If I have a late lunch meeting, I book at Santa Lucia because they know me and give me fist bumps now. When I come back to Loreto, I’m always greeted by my perfect puppy, who makes me so happy and grateful to live and work in such an affordable and simple place.
For local aperitivo, I head to Palinuro Bar where they have an extensive selection of natural wines. I’m half-Korean so I love me some real home-cooked Korean food. Right up the street is Ginmi, which has a great mandu duk boki soup.
What are some of your favorite hidden gems?
For coffee, there’s Cucch, a historic coffee and pastry spot near Porta Genova; Li-Sei Deli in Navigli or Gaya in Loreto for Korean food. San Filippo Neri is great for outdoor parties; it’s where locals hang and get smashed before heading back to work.
There’s Bar Basso for unnecessarily large Sbagliatos or Negronis, and as I said, I like Palinuro for its natural wines in an intimate setting with great tunes. Sogni offers delicious upscale cocktails and seafood, also with a great playlist. Volt is where you’ll find the best techno DJs from around the world. If you want a romantic and classic dinner, then Al Baretto San Marco is the place. In the summer, go to Bagni Misteriosi for its all-day pool vibes (there’s a full bar and restaurant, too). And La Bettola di Piero is the best quaint and warm-feeling lunch spot—ever.
Because I’m more of a seller than a consumer, shopping scenes aren’t really my thing, but for cool leather handbags and shoes, head to Boyy in San Babila.
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